Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

4PM Galactomyces Niacinamide Serum Versus Dermorepubliq 5% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + 2% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum

4PM Galactomyces Niacinamide Serum Versus Dermorepubliq 5% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + 2% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and balan

4PM Galactomyces Niacinamide Serum Versus Dermorepubliq 5% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + 2% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and balance excess oil.

This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and Niacinamide to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 10%

Niacinamide 10%

Isopentyldiol

1,2-Hexanediol

Zinc PCA

Xanthan Gum

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Glycerin

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract

Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 10%, Niacinamide 10%, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Zinc PCA, Xanthan Gum, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Glycerin, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Propylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Centella Asiatica Leaf

Extracts

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Phenoxyethanol

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Leaf, Extracts, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  4. 04Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  5. 05It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  6. 06Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  7. 07A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  8. 08Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
  9. 09You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
  10. 10The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
  11. 11Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
  12. 12Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
  13. 13It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
  14. 14EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.
  15. 15What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).
  16. 16Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.
  17. 17Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.
  18. 18In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.
  19. 19You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.
  20. 20Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Kleem Organics Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Kleem Organics Hyaluronic Acid Serum Kleem Organics Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Deionized Water), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (Organic Aloe), Glycerin (Kosher, Vegeta…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

100% Pure Rose Hyaluronic Acid Serum

100% Pure Rose Hyaluronic Acid Serum 100% Pure Rose Hyaluronic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice*, Rosa Damascena Distillate (Rose Hydrosol)*, Glycer…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01How to Apply Face Serums

Skincare rules can get confusing, but when it comes to application the general rule of thumb is to pay attention to the product’s consistency. “Apply the lightest, thinnest product first and the heaviest, and more dense products last, since thinner products can’t penetrate thicker products,”says Dr. Lewis. After cleansing the face and following up with a toner, let the skin dry before using a serum. You can layer different serums on top of each other or opt for a product that has a precise mix of multiple hero ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

Source · www.skincare.com
02What Skin Types Should Use Hyaluronic Acid?

“Hyaluronic acid is particularly helpful for those experiencing dry skin, and for those desiring a plumping effect,” explains Dr. King. But, if you have an oily skin type, don’t discredit hyaluronic acid from your routine just yet. Despite the excess sebum that you may experience, it’s important to keep your skin hydrated so that it doesn’t overcompensate and produce even more oil as a result. Besides your skin type, you should also look at the condition of your skin to decide if it’s time to begin using hyaluronic acid. “If your skin is starting to look dull, flaky and you’re seeing more pronounced fine lines and wrinkles, that’s a pretty good indication that it’s time to add this ingredient to your routine,” adds O’Conner.

Source · www.skincare.com