Skin science article
Abib PDRN Collagen Lip Mask Glazed Jelly Versus MediCube PDRN Peptide Glossy Lip Balm
Abib PDRN Collagen Lip Mask Glazed Jelly Versus MediCube PDRN Peptide Glossy Lip Balm This anti-aging lip mask is formulated around Sodium DNA and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium
Abib PDRN Collagen Lip Mask Glazed Jelly Versus MediCube PDRN Peptide Glossy Lip Balm
This anti-aging lip mask is formulated around Sodium DNA and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium DNA and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Polybutene
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Water
Parfum
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Tocopherol
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
CI 77491
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Oryza Sativa Extract
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium DNA
Centella Asiatica Extract
Soluble Collagen
Collagen Extract
Disodium EDTA
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Water, Parfum, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, CI 77491, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Oryza Sativa Extract, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Rice Bran Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium DNA, Centella Asiatica Extract, Soluble Collagen, Collagen Extract, Disodium EDTA, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyisobutene
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Diisostearyl Malate
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Calcium Titanium Borosilicate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Titanium Dioxide
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate
CI 15850
Tin Oxide
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceramide NP
Copper Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Parfum, Calcium Titanium Borosilicate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Water, Titanium Dioxide, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Tocopherol, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate, CI 15850, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium DNA, Tin Oxide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
This ingredient is a high-molecular weight synthetic polymer. It is used to modify the viscosity of a formula, improve slip, and create a more "cushiony" texture.
Due to its large molecular size, this ingredient is not absorbed into the skin.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
This is a synthetic polymer used to thicken formulas, improve texture, and enhance spreadability.
Due to its large molecule size, this ingredient does not penetrate the skin and is considered well-tolerated.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Sodium DNA is an emerging anti-aging ingredient.
It is created by taking deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and purifying it with sodium hydroxide.
The DNA is extracted from several different animal sources, including: calf thymus, the gonadic tissue of a male sturgeon, or herring / salmon sperm.
You have probably seen this ingredient in anti-aging skincare. But what is it?
DNA is composed of nucleotides, or chemical building blocks. Nucleotides include adenine (A), thymine (T), guanine (G), and cytosine (C). Talk about a flashback to biology! Nucleosides are formed from these nucleotides.
The science behind Sodium DNA is based on an ingredient called Polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN.
PDRN are DNA fragments mainly extracted from the sperm cells of trout or salmon. Meaning, PDRN can be derived from Sodium DNA.
PDRN consists of chains of nucleotides and nucleosides mentioned above. They can range anywhere from 80 - 2000 pairs.
Studies show PDRN has the following properties:
Most of the research on PDRN has been done using injectable forms. That’s important, because PDRN is a large molecule and doesn’t absorb well through the skin. So if you’re applying it topically, the effects are likely to be much milder.
Still, topical Sodium DNA is emerging as a trendy anti-aging ingredient. It’s generally well-tolerated and offers good biocompatibility with human skin, making it a low-risk addition to most routines.
Further studies are needed to truly confirm this ingredients anti-aging ability (Remember, retinol has decades of research!).
Sodium DNA may be sourced from fish, animal tissue, or plants. Since this isn’t always disclosed, we recommend asking the brand directly if the ingredient’s origin is important to you.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!