Skin science article
Acwell Licorice pH Balancing Intensive Eye Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream
Acwell Licorice pH Balancing Intensive Eye Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This ba
Acwell Licorice pH Balancing Intensive Eye Cream Versus Paula's Choice Omega+ Complex Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Borago Officinalis Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Cyclohexasiloxane
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetyl Alcohol
Squalane
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Behenyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Glyceryl Stearate
Sorbitan Olivate
Stearyl Alcohol
Dipropylene Glycol
Arginine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Butylene Glycol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cholesterol
Dextrin
Xanthan Gum
Adenosine
Fructooligosaccharides
Ceramide NP
Beta-Glucan
Disodium EDTA
Caffeine
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Raffinose
Folic Acid
Tocopherol
Tromethamine
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Glutathione
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Squalane, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Stearyl Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cholesterol, Dextrin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Disodium EDTA, Caffeine, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Raffinose, Folic Acid, Tocopherol, Tromethamine, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glutathione, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Cetyl Palmitate
Nylon-12
Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Persea Gratissima Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Morus Alba Root Extract
Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Serine
Alanine
Proline
Threonine
Phytosphingosine
Phytosterols
Sodium PCA
Glycine
Oleic Acid
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Lecithin
Sodium Lactate
Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Phytic Acid
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
PCA
Betaine
Pullulan
Carbomer
Sclerotium Gum
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Silica
Sorbitan Oleate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cetyl Palmitate, Nylon-12, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Squalane, Niacinamide, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Morus Alba Root Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Serine, Alanine, Proline, Arginine, Threonine, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Oleic Acid, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Lecithin, Adenosine, Sodium Lactate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Phytic Acid, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Glycerin, PCA, Betaine, Pullulan, Carbomer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica, Sorbitan Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.