Skin science article
Advanced Clinicals Collagen Lotion + Peptide Cream Versus CeraVe SA Cream for Rough & Bumpy Skin
Advanced Clinicals Collagen Lotion + Peptide Cream Versus CeraVe SA Cream for Rough & Bumpy Skin This hydrating body lotion is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This smoothing
Advanced Clinicals Collagen Lotion + Peptide Cream Versus CeraVe SA Cream for Rough & Bumpy Skin
This hydrating body lotion is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C13-15 Alkane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C18-21 Alkane
Soluble Collagen
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Phosphate
Synthetic Beeswax
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Tocopherol
Polysorbate 20
Carbomer
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C13-15 Alkane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C18-21 Alkane, Soluble Collagen, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Phosphate, Synthetic Beeswax, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide
Paraffinum Liquidum
Cetearyl Alcohol
Triethanolamine
Salicylic Acid
Niacinamide
Ammonium Lactate
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
PEG-100 Stearate
Zea Mays Oil
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Dimethicone
Methylparaben
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Cholecalciferol
Cholesterol
Disodium EDTA
Propylparaben
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Phytosphingosine
Water, Glycerin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Ammonium Lactate, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, PEG-100 Stearate, Zea Mays Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Methylparaben, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholecalciferol, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Propylparaben, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.