Skin science article
Advanced Clinicals Peptide Serum Versus Advanced Clinicals Collagen Serum
Advanced Clinicals Peptide Serum Versus Advanced Clinicals Collagen Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane to soft
Advanced Clinicals Peptide Serum Versus Advanced Clinicals Collagen Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Glycerin
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Soluble Collagen
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-37
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
1,2-Hexanediol
Carbomer
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Parfum
Hexylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citric Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Lactate
Sodium Citrate
Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-37, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Citrate
Water
Isopropyl Myristate
Ethylhexyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Squalane
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Tocopherol
Avena Sativa Bran Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Maltodextrin
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Linalool
Hydroxycitronellal
Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Squalane, Soluble Collagen, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Tocopherol, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.
The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.
Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.
Soluble collagen is a large, water-loving protein typically extracted from cattle hides or marine sources like fish skin.
In cosmetics, it works purely as a humectant and film-former.
Despite the marketing that surrounds the word "collagen", its molecule is far too large to penetrate skin so it can't rebuild the collagen in your dermis.
Instead, it sits on the surface and binds water to help reduce transepidermal water loss and leave skin feeling soft, plump, and temporarily tightened.
Suppliers commonly recommend using it around 3-6% though industry data shows concentrations are often much lower (down to a fraction of a percent).
This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics with no reported irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.