Skin science article
Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Anti Aging Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum
Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Anti Aging Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This oil
Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Anti Aging Serum Versus The INKEY List Niacinamide Oil Control Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ferulic Acid
Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Glycerin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Vanillin
Malonic Acid
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Limonene
Linalool
Citronellol
Water, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ferulic Acid, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Vanillin, Malonic Acid, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Phospholipids
Squalane
Glycine Soja Oil
Allantoin
Sodium Phytate
Polysorbate 60
Panthenol
Glycolipids
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Citric Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Disodium Phosphate
Sodium Phosphate
Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phospholipids, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Glycine Soja Oil, Allantoin, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Glycolipids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Citric Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.