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Skin science article

Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream

Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moistu

Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Squalane

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Behenyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea

Cyclohexasiloxane

C14-22 Alcohols

Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide Mea

Mannitol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Cholesterol

Polyacrylate-13

Copernicia Cerifera Wax Extract

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Allantoin

Arachidyl Glucoside

Dimethiconol

Polyisobutene

Phytosphingosine

Glyceryl Caprylate

Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Silica

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glucose

Arachidic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Caesalpinia Sappan Stem Powder

Oleic Acid

Tocopherol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Squalane, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Cyclohexasiloxane, C14-22 Alcohols, Hydroxypropyl Bislauramide Mea, Mannitol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cholesterol, Polyacrylate-13, Copernicia Cerifera Wax Extract, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Allantoin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Polyisobutene, Phytosphingosine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Arachidic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Caesalpinia Sappan Stem Powder, Oleic Acid, Tocopherol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Olus Oil

Cetyl Lactate

Propanediol

C12-16 Alcohols

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer

Squalene

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Xanthan Gum

Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate

Glycine Soja Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Phytosterols

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Gluconolactone

Phenethyl Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  4. 04Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  5. 05It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  6. 06Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  7. 07A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  8. 08Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
  9. 09You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
  10. 10The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
  11. 11Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
  12. 12Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
  13. 13It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
  14. 14EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.
  15. 15What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).
  16. 16Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.
  17. 17Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.
  18. 18In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.
  19. 19You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.
  20. 20Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Source · skinsort.com
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