AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Facial Cleanser Versus Paula's Choice Defense Hydrating Gel-To-Cream Cleanser

AHC Beauty Aqualuronic Facial Cleanser Versus Paula's Choice Defense Hydrating Gel-To-Cream Cleanser

This mild gel cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Myristic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Lauric Acid

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Enteromorpha Compressa Extract

Codium Tomentosum Extract

Sodium Chloride

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Parfum

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

PEG-14m

Arachidic Acid

Cellulose Gum

1,2-Hexanediol

Disodium EDTA

Silica

Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract

Saponaria Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract

Maris Aqua

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Ns

Cholesterol

Ceramide As

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Madecassic Acid

Phytosphingosine

Asiatic Acid

Asiaticoside

Ceramide EOP

Water, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Codium Tomentosum Extract, Sodium Chloride, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Parfum, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, PEG-14m, Arachidic Acid, Cellulose Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Silica, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract, Maris Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Cholesterol, Ceramide As, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Madecassic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Ceramide EOP

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Sodium Lauroamphoacetate

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate

Decyl Glucoside

Pentylene Glycol

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Lactic Acid

Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids

Sorbitan Laurate

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Cocoyl Proline

Sodium Citrate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Arginine

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Potassium Citrate

Lactoperoxidase

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Glucose Oxidase

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycerin, Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate, Decyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Lauric Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium EDTA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cocoyl Proline, Sodium Citrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Arginine, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Potassium Citrate, Lactoperoxidase, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Glucose Oxidase, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.

This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.

Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.

While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.

In cosmetics, it is an:

Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.

The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source. Even though "fungal acne" has the word "acne" in it, they are completely different. Regular acne is driven by a bacteria called Cutibacterium acnes, clogged pores, and excess oil. Fungal acne isn't really acne; it's caused by an overgrowth of a yeast called Malassezia that already lives on everyone's skin. Because one is bacterial and the other is fungal, they respond to different ingredients.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.

You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.

You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.

You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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