AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Methylpropanediol

Betaine

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Glycerin

Cyclohexasiloxane

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 60

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Panthenol

Squalane

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Parfum

Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycosyl Trehalose

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Butylene Glycol

Raffinose

Adenosine

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polyquaternium-51

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Ceramide NP

Folic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water

Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water

Cholesterol

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Collagen Extract

Propanediol

Alcohol

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract

Phytosphingosine

Tromethamine

Maltodextrin

Acrylates Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol

Lactic Acid

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Sorbitan Laurate

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Oryza Sativa Extract

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Primula Veris Extract

Malva Sylvestris Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Veronica Officinalis Extract

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Rutin

Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Benzyl Alcohol

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Dipotassium Phosphate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Plankton Extract

Carbomer

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Ceramide AP

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Copper Tripeptide-1

Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol

Gluconolactone

Calcium Gluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Saussurea Involucrata Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Sodium Benzoate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Arginine Ferulate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Disodium Phosphate

Acetic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Retinol

Sodium Lactate

Magnesium PCA

Lysine

Leucine

Methionine

Valine

Serine

Sucrose

Cysteine

Proline

Histidine

Calcium Chloride

Taurine

Tryptophan

Asparagine

Formic Acid

1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

Magnesium Citrate

Magnesium Chloride

Citrulline

Ammonia

Ornithine

Uric Acid

Tyrosine

Threonine

Phenylalanine

Potassium Hydroxide

Alanine

Arginine

Urea

Isoleucine

Maris Sal

Aspartic Acid

Glycine

Glucosamine Hcl

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Ceramide EOP

Benzyl Benzoate

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Squalane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Parfum, Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycosyl Trehalose, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Butylene Glycol, Raffinose, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyquaternium-51, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Ceramide NP, Folic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Cholesterol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Collagen Extract, Propanediol, Alcohol, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Phytosphingosine, Tromethamine, Maltodextrin, Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sorbitan Laurate, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Oryza Sativa Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Rutin, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Benzyl Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Plankton Extract, Carbomer, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide AP, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Benzoate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Arginine Ferulate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Disodium Phosphate, Acetic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Retinol, Sodium Lactate, Magnesium PCA, Lysine, Leucine, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Proline, Histidine, Calcium Chloride, Taurine, Tryptophan, Asparagine, Formic Acid, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Magnesium Citrate, Magnesium Chloride, Citrulline, Ammonia, Ornithine, Uric Acid, Tyrosine, Threonine, Phenylalanine, Potassium Hydroxide, Alanine, Arginine, Urea, Isoleucine, Maris Sal, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Ceramide EOP, Benzyl Benzoate

Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

C14-28 Alkyl Acid

Stearyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Stearic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Trehalose

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Cucurbitaceae Extract

Orchid Extract

Honey Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Ceteareth-20

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.

Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.

Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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