Skin science article
AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Eye Cream
AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated arou
AHC Beauty Essential Eye Cream for Face Versus Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Methylpropanediol
Betaine
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Glycerin
Cyclohexasiloxane
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Panthenol
Squalane
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Parfum
Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycosyl Trehalose
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Butylene Glycol
Raffinose
Adenosine
Lecithin
Disodium EDTA
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyquaternium-51
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Ceramide NP
Folic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water
Cholesterol
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Collagen Extract
Propanediol
Alcohol
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract
Phytosphingosine
Tromethamine
Maltodextrin
Acrylates Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
Tocopherol
Caprylyl Glycol
Lactic Acid
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Sorbitan Laurate
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Oryza Sativa Extract
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Primula Veris Extract
Malva Sylvestris Extract
Achillea Millefolium Extract
Veronica Officinalis Extract
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Rutin
Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Benzyl Alcohol
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Dipotassium Phosphate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Plankton Extract
Carbomer
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Ceramide AP
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Copper Tripeptide-1
Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol
Gluconolactone
Calcium Gluconate
Potassium Sorbate
Saussurea Involucrata Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sodium Benzoate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Arginine Ferulate
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Acetyl Tripeptide-1
Disodium Phosphate
Acetic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
Retinol
Sodium Lactate
Magnesium PCA
Lysine
Leucine
Methionine
Valine
Serine
Sucrose
Cysteine
Proline
Histidine
Calcium Chloride
Taurine
Tryptophan
Asparagine
Formic Acid
1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Magnesium Citrate
Magnesium Chloride
Citrulline
Ammonia
Ornithine
Uric Acid
Tyrosine
Threonine
Phenylalanine
Potassium Hydroxide
Alanine
Arginine
Urea
Isoleucine
Maris Sal
Aspartic Acid
Glycine
Glucosamine Hcl
Glutamic Acid
Glutamine
Ceramide EOP
Benzyl Benzoate
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Squalane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Parfum, Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycosyl Trehalose, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Butylene Glycol, Raffinose, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyquaternium-51, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Ceramide NP, Folic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Cholesterol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Collagen Extract, Propanediol, Alcohol, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Phytosphingosine, Tromethamine, Maltodextrin, Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactic Acid, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sorbitan Laurate, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Oryza Sativa Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Rutin, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Benzyl Alcohol, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Plankton Extract, Carbomer, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide AP, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Benzoate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Arginine Ferulate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Disodium Phosphate, Acetic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Retinol, Sodium Lactate, Magnesium PCA, Lysine, Leucine, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Proline, Histidine, Calcium Chloride, Taurine, Tryptophan, Asparagine, Formic Acid, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Magnesium Citrate, Magnesium Chloride, Citrulline, Ammonia, Ornithine, Uric Acid, Tyrosine, Threonine, Phenylalanine, Potassium Hydroxide, Alanine, Arginine, Urea, Isoleucine, Maris Sal, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Ceramide EOP, Benzyl Benzoate
Petrolatum
Isopropyl Isostearate
Tapioca Starch
Isohexadecane
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Cetearyl Glucoside
Laureth-7
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Polyacrylamide
PEG-100 Stearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Water, Petrolatum, Isopropyl Isostearate, Tapioca Starch, Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Laureth-7, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylamide, PEG-100 Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.
A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.
The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.
Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!