AHC Beauty Firming Ten Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal

AHC Beauty Firming Ten Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Cyclohexasiloxane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Water

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate

Cetyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Betaine

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Collagen Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Triticum Aestivum Peptide

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Soluble Collagen

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Oryza Sativa Germ Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Methylpropanediol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Polyacrylate-13

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Behenyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Vinyldimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Allantoin

Glycosyl Trehalose

Panthenol

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Xanthan Gum

Adenosine

Raffinose

Cholesterol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Disodium EDTA

Micrococcus Lysate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Lecithin

Propanediol

Ceramide NP

Polyquaternium-51

Sodium Laurate

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Lauric Acid

Cyanocobalamin

Tromethamine

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Human Tooth Pulp Stem Cell Conditioned Media

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Collagen Water

Tocopheryl Acetate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Xylitylglucoside

Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Glycolipids

Sorbitan Laurate

Glucose

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Capryloyl Glycine

Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Maltodextrin

Hexylene Glycol

Squalane

Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Collagen

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Tetrahydropiperine

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Collagen Amino Acids

Mannitol

Lactic Acid

Sarcosine

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Rutin

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Alanine

Arginine

Asparagine

Aspartic Acid

Citrulline

Cysteine

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Glycine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Leucine

Lysine

Methionine

Ornithine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Serine

Taurine

Threonine

Tryptophan

Tyrosine

Valine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17

Capryloyl Dipeptide-17

Acetyl Glutamine

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Dipotassium Phosphate

Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Pantothenic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Gluconolactone

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Palmitic Acid

Glycine Soja Peptide

Saccharomyces Polypeptides

Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol

Stearic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Atelocollagen

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Capryloyl Sh-Nonapeptide-6

R-Bovine Polypeptide-1

Avena Sativa Peptide

Glycine Max Polypeptide

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Calcium Gluconate

Dipeptide-2

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Nonapeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-2

Dipeptide-1

Pentapeptide-3

Tripeptide-3

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Dipeptide-4

Oligopeptide-6

Retinyl Palmitate

Biotin

Ascorbic Acid

Riboflavin

Thiamine Hcl

Folic Acid

Pyridoxine

Menadione

Myristic Acid

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-4

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-14

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Polysorbate 80

Hydroxyacetophenone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Water, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Betaine, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Vinyldimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Allantoin, Glycosyl Trehalose, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Raffinose, Cholesterol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Micrococcus Lysate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Propanediol, Ceramide NP, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Laurate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Lauric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Tromethamine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Human Tooth Pulp Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Collagen Water, Tocopheryl Acetate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Xylitylglucoside, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Laurate, Glucose, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Capryloyl Glycine, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Maltodextrin, Hexylene Glycol, Squalane, Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Collagen, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Tetrahydropiperine, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Collagen Amino Acids, Mannitol, Lactic Acid, Sarcosine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Rutin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Citrulline, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Ornithine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Taurine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Acetyl Glutamine, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Pantothenic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Gluconolactone, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Peptide, Saccharomyces Polypeptides, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Capryloyl Sh-Nonapeptide-6, R-Bovine Polypeptide-1, Avena Sativa Peptide, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Calcium Gluconate, Dipeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Dipeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Tripeptide-3, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Dipeptide-4, Oligopeptide-6, Retinyl Palmitate, Biotin, Ascorbic Acid, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine, Menadione, Myristic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-14, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 80, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Carbomer

Glyceryl Stearate

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Dextrin

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Retinal

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Silica

Tocopherol

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Water, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Adenosine, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Retinal, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

This ingredient is also known as Macadamia Seed Oil. It's an emollient with a fatty acid profile that closely mirrors the skin's own lipid makeup.

The palmitoleic acid content is especially notable as it's somewhat rare in plant oils. Palmitoleic acid is something your skin already makes naturally. It helps keep cell membranes structured and plays a role in fighting off harmful microbes.

This palmitoleic content is also part of why macademia seed oil absorbs quickly and doesn't leave much of a greasy residue.

It also contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, and phytosterols that can help reduce redness.

In vitro research has shown the oil to have meaningful antioxidant activity, protect fats in the skin from oxidative damage, and slow down the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid.

A 2024 clinical study found it effective at improving skin hydratino and reducing wrinkle appearance when formulated into nanoemulsions.

Because it carries oleic acid (C18) and palmitic acid (C16), this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast metabolizes in the C11-24 chain length range.

You'll also see this ingredient listed as: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil .

These two oils are identical in composition and M. ternifolia is an older INCI naming convention for the edible macadamia nut while M. integrifolia is the species actually cultivated for oil production. Both names refer to the same oil.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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