AHC Beauty Premier Ampoule In Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream

AHC Beauty Premier Ampoule In Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Collagen Extract

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride

Phenyl Trimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Water

Cyclohexasiloxane

Cetearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Cetyl Alcohol

Panthenol

Tabebuia Bark Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Golden Extract

Malt Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Collagen

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

C15-19 Alkane

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polyacrylate-13

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Vinyldimethicone

Jojoba Esters

Butylene Glycol

Myristyl Myristate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Sucrose Polystearate

Xanthan Gum

Glucose

Adenosine

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Cholesterol

Disodium EDTA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ceramide NP

Polyglycerin-3

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Poloxamer 188

Fructooligosaccharides

Propanediol

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Sodium Laurate

Beta-Glucan

Carbomer

Lauric Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Gold

Lactobacillus

Madecassoside

Hyaluronic Acid

Cyanocobalamin

Tocopherol

C10-18 Triglycerides

Cetyl Palmitate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Ascorbic Acid

Polyurethane-15

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyurethane-11

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Parfum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Collagen Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Cetyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Tabebuia Bark Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Golden Extract, Malt Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Collagen, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, C15-19 Alkane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyacrylate-13, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Vinyldimethicone, Jojoba Esters, Butylene Glycol, Myristyl Myristate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sucrose Polystearate, Xanthan Gum, Glucose, Adenosine, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cholesterol, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide NP, Polyglycerin-3, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Poloxamer 188, Fructooligosaccharides, Propanediol, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Laurate, Beta-Glucan, Carbomer, Lauric Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Gold, Lactobacillus, Madecassoside, Hyaluronic Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ascorbic Acid, Polyurethane-15, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyurethane-11, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Parfum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Palmitic Acid

Arginine

Stearic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Myristic Acid

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Palmitic Acid, Arginine, Carbomer, Stearic Acid, Betaine, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Myristic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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