Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

AHC Beauty Premier Ampoule In Eye Cream Versus Mizon Collagen Power Firming Eye Cream

AHC Beauty Premier Ampoule In Eye Cream Versus Mizon Collagen Power Firming Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is form

AHC Beauty Premier Ampoule In Eye Cream Versus Mizon Collagen Power Firming Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Collagen Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Collagen Extract

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride

Phenyl Trimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Water

Cyclohexasiloxane

Cetearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Cetyl Alcohol

Panthenol

Tabebuia Bark Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Golden Extract

Malt Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Collagen

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

C15-19 Alkane

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polyacrylate-13

Behenyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Vinyldimethicone

Jojoba Esters

Butylene Glycol

Myristyl Myristate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Sucrose Polystearate

Xanthan Gum

Glucose

Adenosine

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Cholesterol

Disodium EDTA

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ceramide NP

Polyglycerin-3

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Poloxamer 188

Fructooligosaccharides

Propanediol

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Sodium Laurate

Beta-Glucan

Carbomer

Lauric Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Gold

Lactobacillus

Madecassoside

Hyaluronic Acid

Cyanocobalamin

Tocopherol

C10-18 Triglycerides

Cetyl Palmitate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Ascorbic Acid

Polyurethane-15

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyurethane-11

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Parfum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Collagen Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Cetyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Tabebuia Bark Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Golden Extract, Malt Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Collagen, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, C15-19 Alkane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyacrylate-13, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Vinyldimethicone, Jojoba Esters, Butylene Glycol, Myristyl Myristate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sucrose Polystearate, Xanthan Gum, Glucose, Adenosine, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cholesterol, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide NP, Polyglycerin-3, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Poloxamer 188, Fructooligosaccharides, Propanediol, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Laurate, Beta-Glucan, Carbomer, Lauric Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Gold, Lactobacillus, Madecassoside, Hyaluronic Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ascorbic Acid, Polyurethane-15, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyurethane-11, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Parfum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Caprylyl Methicone

Sodium Chloride

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

Sodium Citrate

PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Honey Extract

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Alanine

Lysine

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Cysteine

Methionine

Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Copper Tripeptide-1

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Chloride, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Sodium Citrate, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Dipropylene Glycol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Honey Extract, Beta-Glucan, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Glycine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side