Skin science article
AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal
AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-a
AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Oryza Sativa Extract
Water
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Dimethicone
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Niacinamide
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Butylene Glycol
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Rose Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Collagen Extract
Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water
Polysorbate 60
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Polyacrylate-13
Hydroxyacetophenone
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
C12-16 Alcohols
Polysorbate 20
Polyisobutene
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
1,2-Hexanediol
Tranexamic Acid
Sodium Polyacrylate
Palmitic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polyquaternium-51
Glycosyl Trehalose
Xanthan Gum
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Raffinose
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Adenosine
Lecithin
Disodium EDTA
Panthenol
Dipropylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Folic Acid
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Cholesterol
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetic Acid
Triethylhexanoin
Acrylates Copolymer
Lactic Acid
Alcohol Denat.
Rutin
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sorbitan Laurate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Phospholipids
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Tromethamine
Copper Tripeptide-1
Magnesium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Phytosphingosine
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Glycine
Glucosamine Hcl
Glutamic Acid
Glutamine
Disodium Phosphate
Lysine
Leucine
Magnesium Citrate
Maltodextrin
Methionine
Valine
Serine
Sucrose
Cysteine
Citrulline
Sea Salt
Asparagine
Aspartic Acid
Alanine
Arginine
Ammonia
Ornithine
Urea
Uric Acid
Isoleucine
Calcium Chloride
Taurine
Tyrosine
Threonine
Tryptophan
Phenylalanine
Formic Acid
Potassium Hydroxide
Proline
Histidine
Ceramide Ng
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Caprylyl Glycol
Tocopheryl Linoleate
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Ceramide AP
Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol
Carbomer
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Acetyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Ceramide EOP
Potassium Sorbate
Oryza Sativa Extract, Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Rose Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Polysorbate 60, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, C12-16 Alcohols, Polysorbate 20, Polyisobutene, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tranexamic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Palmitic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyquaternium-51, Glycosyl Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Dipropylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Folic Acid, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Cholesterol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetic Acid, Triethylhexanoin, Acrylates Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Rutin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Laurate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Tromethamine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Magnesium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Phytosphingosine, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Glycine, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Disodium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Magnesium Citrate, Maltodextrin, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Citrulline, Sea Salt, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Alanine, Arginine, Ammonia, Ornithine, Urea, Uric Acid, Isoleucine, Calcium Chloride, Taurine, Tyrosine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Formic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Proline, Histidine, Ceramide Ng, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide AP, Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Carbomer, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ceramide EOP, Potassium Sorbate
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Dextrin
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Retinal
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Silica
Tocopherol
Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Water, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Adenosine, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Retinal, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!