AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Hyaluronic Volumy Eye Cream

AHC Beauty The Real Eye Cream for Face Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Hyaluronic Volumy Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Oryza Sativa Extract

Water

Glycerin

Methylpropanediol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Dimethicone

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Niacinamide

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Butylene Glycol

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Rose Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Collagen Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides

Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water

Polysorbate 60

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Polyacrylate-13

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

C12-16 Alcohols

Polysorbate 20

Polyisobutene

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Tranexamic Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Palmitic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polyquaternium-51

Glycosyl Trehalose

Xanthan Gum

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Raffinose

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Adenosine

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Panthenol

Dipropylene Glycol

Ceramide NP

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Folic Acid

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Cholesterol

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetic Acid

Triethylhexanoin

Acrylates Copolymer

Lactic Acid

Alcohol Denat.

Rutin

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sorbitan Laurate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Phospholipids

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Tromethamine

Copper Tripeptide-1

Magnesium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Isostearyl Isostearate

Phytosphingosine

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide

Glycine

Glucosamine Hcl

Glutamic Acid

Glutamine

Disodium Phosphate

Lysine

Leucine

Magnesium Citrate

Maltodextrin

Methionine

Valine

Serine

Sucrose

Cysteine

Citrulline

Sea Salt

Asparagine

Aspartic Acid

Alanine

Arginine

Ammonia

Ornithine

Urea

Uric Acid

Isoleucine

Calcium Chloride

Taurine

Tyrosine

Threonine

Tryptophan

Phenylalanine

Formic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Proline

Histidine

Ceramide Ng

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Caprylyl Glycol

Tocopheryl Linoleate

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Ceramide AP

Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol

Carbomer

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Ceramide EOP

Potassium Sorbate

Oryza Sativa Extract, Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Dimethicone, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Rose Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Exopolysaccharides, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Polysorbate 60, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, C12-16 Alcohols, Polysorbate 20, Polyisobutene, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tranexamic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Palmitic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyquaternium-51, Glycosyl Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Adenosine, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Dipropylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Folic Acid, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Cholesterol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetic Acid, Triethylhexanoin, Acrylates Copolymer, Lactic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Rutin, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Laurate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Tromethamine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Magnesium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Phytosphingosine, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Glycine, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Disodium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Magnesium Citrate, Maltodextrin, Methionine, Valine, Serine, Sucrose, Cysteine, Citrulline, Sea Salt, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Alanine, Arginine, Ammonia, Ornithine, Urea, Uric Acid, Isoleucine, Calcium Chloride, Taurine, Tyrosine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Phenylalanine, Formic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Proline, Histidine, Ceramide Ng, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide AP, Vp/Polycarbamyl Polyglycol Ester, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein Pg-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Carbomer, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ceramide EOP, Potassium Sorbate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

PEG-100 Stearate

Pullulan

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Cetearyl Glucoside

Isohexadecane

Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Trehalose

Polysorbate 80

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Parfum

Glycine Soja Oil

Sorbitan Oleate

Malt Extract

Propanediol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Bixa Orellana Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Fructan

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Benzyl Glycol

Tocopherol

Propylene Glycol

Rosa Damascena Flower Extract

Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract

Raspberry Ketone

Hyaluronic Acid

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Water, Methylpropanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, PEG-100 Stearate, Pullulan, Hydroxyacetophenone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Arginine, Carbomer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Isohexadecane, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 80, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Parfum, Glycine Soja Oil, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Malt Extract, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Bixa Orellana Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Fructan, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Benzyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Propylene Glycol, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raspberry Ketone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans yet.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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