AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream For Face Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1%

AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream For Face Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1%

This eye moisturizer is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Extract and Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate to hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Niacinamide

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetyl Alcohol

Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Methylpropanediol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Malt Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Collagen Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Triticum Aestivum Peptide

Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract

Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Soluble Collagen

Oryza Sativa Germ Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sh-Polypeptide-19

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Polyacrylate-13

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Panthenol

Butylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Micrococcus Lysate

Glycosyl Trehalose

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Xanthan Gum

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Adenosine

Raffinose

Cholesterol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Disodium EDTA

Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Ceramide NP

Tromethamine

Polyquaternium-51

Sodium Laurate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Lauric Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Soluble Elastin

Propanediol

Folic Acid

Carnosine

Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Glycolipids

Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen

Glycine

Lactobacillus Ferment

Maltodextrin

Squalane

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Collagen

Collagen Amino Acids

Tetrahydropiperine

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Aspartic Acid

Mannitol

Leucine

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Alanine

Lysine

Xylitylglucoside

Arginine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Sodium Palmitoyl Proline

Valine

Threonine

Proline

Anhydroxylitol

Isoleucine

Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Histidine

Xylitol

Methionine

Cysteine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Potassium Hyaluronate

Pvp

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Hyaluronic Acid

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Gluconolactone

Glycine Soja Peptide

Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol

Sorbitan Laurate

Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate

Saccharomyces Polypeptides

Glucose

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Alcohol Denat.

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Avena Sativa Peptide

Retinal

Menadione

Silica

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Glycine Max Polypeptide

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Lactic Acid

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Ceteth-3

Ceteth-5

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Tocopherol

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sucrose Distearate

Atelocollagen

Rutin

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Phosphate

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Dipotassium Phosphate

Calcium Gluconate

Nonapeptide-1

Dipeptide-1

Dipeptide-2

Dipeptide-4

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Oligopeptide-6

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Tripeptide-3

Pentapeptide-3

Hexapeptide-2

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Fullerenes

Biotin

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Thiamine Hcl

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Pyridoxine

Cyanocobalamin

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-9

1,2-Hexanediol

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Polysorbate 20

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

Parfum

Hydroxyacetophenone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Pentylene Glycol

Calendula Officinalis Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Malt Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Soluble Collagen, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Polypeptide-19, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Polyacrylate-13, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Micrococcus Lysate, Glycosyl Trehalose, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Cholesterol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Ceramide NP, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Laurate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Lauric Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Soluble Elastin, Propanediol, Folic Acid, Carnosine, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glycolipids, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Maltodextrin, Squalane, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Tetrahydropiperine, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Aspartic Acid, Mannitol, Leucine, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Alanine, Lysine, Xylitylglucoside, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Anhydroxylitol, Isoleucine, Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Histidine, Xylitol, Methionine, Cysteine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Potassium Hyaluronate, Pvp, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hyaluronic Acid, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Gluconolactone, Glycine Soja Peptide, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sorbitan Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Saccharomyces Polypeptides, Glucose, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Alcohol Denat., Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Avena Sativa Peptide, Retinal, Menadione, Silica, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lactic Acid, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Tocopherol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sucrose Distearate, Atelocollagen, Rutin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Phosphate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Dipotassium Phosphate, Calcium Gluconate, Nonapeptide-1, Dipeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Dipeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Oligopeptide-6, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-3, Pentapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Fullerenes, Biotin, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Thiamine Hcl, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pyridoxine, Cyanocobalamin, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 20, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Parfum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Pentapeptide-18

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine

Allantoin

Trehalose

Fructose

Maltose

Urea

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sodium Lactate

Citric Acid

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Acacia Senegal Gum

Carbomer

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Aspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.

Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

This small molecule peptide has similar benefits to Argireline, the "botox" peptide.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide mimics snake venom to freeze muscles. This prevents muscle movement and contractions to prohibit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

While this seems promising, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.

It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.

Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.

Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.

In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.

Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.

One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:

Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.

Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

Isoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.

Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.

This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.

Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.

Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.

Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.

Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.

A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.

A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.

More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Valine is one of the essential amino acids (meaning your body can't make it on its own and has to get it from food).

In skincare, it's usually synthetically-made or pulled from plant proteins like soy.

It's one of the small building blocks that make up your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the built-in system that helps skin hold onto water. So its main job in a formula is to give the skin gentle hydration and help it feel more comfortable.

Typical amounts are very tiny: roughly 0.00004%-0.5% in leave on products and up to 1% in rinse-off ones.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has looked at this ingredient and found no evidence of it being a skin irritant or allergen at cosmetic levels.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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