Skin science article
AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal
AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. T
AHC Beauty Youth Lasting Real Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum : Ginseng + Retinal
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Calendula Officinalis Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Cyclohexasiloxane
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetyl Alcohol
Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Methylpropanediol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Malt Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Collagen Extract
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Pancratium Maritimum Extract
Triticum Aestivum Peptide
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Soluble Collagen
Oryza Sativa Germ Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Calendula Officinalis Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Malt Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Soluble Collagen, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Olivate
Butylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Glyceryl Stearate
Adenosine
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Dextrin
Cholesterol
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Retinal
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Silica
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Ceramide NP
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Glyceryl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Adenosine, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Retinal, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This ingredient is also known as Macadamia Seed Oil. It's an emollient with a fatty acid profile that closely mirrors the skin's own lipid makeup.
The palmitoleic acid content is especially notable as it's somewhat rare in plant oils. Palmitoleic acid is something your skin already makes naturally. It helps keep cell membranes structured and plays a role in fighting off harmful microbes.
This palmitoleic content is also part of why macademia seed oil absorbs quickly and doesn't leave much of a greasy residue.
It also contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, and phytosterols that can help reduce redness.
In vitro research has shown the oil to have meaningful antioxidant activity, protect fats in the skin from oxidative damage, and slow down the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid.
A 2024 clinical study found it effective at improving skin hydratino and reducing wrinkle appearance when formulated into nanoemulsions.
Because it carries oleic acid (C18) and palmitic acid (C16), this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast metabolizes in the C11-24 chain length range.
You'll also see this ingredient listed as: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil .
These two oils are identical in composition and M. ternifolia is an older INCI naming convention for the edible macadamia nut while M. integrifolia is the species actually cultivated for oil production. Both names refer to the same oil.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!