Alastin Restorative Eye Treatment Versus Plated Skin Science Eye Serum

Alastin Restorative Eye Treatment Versus Plated Skin Science Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Pentylene Glycol

Jojoba Esters

Cetearyl Glucoside

Glyceryl Stearate

Niacinamide

PEG-100 Stearate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tetrapeptide-30

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Gallyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside

Darutoside

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Ornithine

Phospholipids

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract

Glycolipids

Betaine

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Beta-Glucan

Silica

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Propanediol

Squalane

Polysorbate 20

Polyacrylate-13

Xanthan Gum

1,2-Hexanediol

Benzyl Alcohol

Dehydroacetic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Levulinic Acid

P-Anisic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Isostearate

Tocopherol

Disodium EDTA

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyisobutene

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Propyl Gallate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tetrapeptide-30, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Gallyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Darutoside, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ornithine, Phospholipids, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Glycolipids, Betaine, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Beta-Glucan, Silica, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Squalane, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylate-13, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Levulinic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyisobutene, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Propyl Gallate, Ethylhexylglycerin

Trideceth-9

Human Platelet Extract

PEG-5 Isononanoate

Panthenol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Gelatin

Arginine

Silanetriol

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Carnosine

Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Trideceth-9, Human Platelet Extract, PEG-5 Isononanoate, Panthenol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Gelatin, Arginine, Silanetriol, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carnosine

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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