Algenist Genius Collagen Calming Relief Versus First Aid Beauty FAB Pharma Arnica Relief & Rescue Mask

Algenist Genius Collagen Calming Relief Versus First Aid Beauty FAB Pharma Arnica Relief & Rescue Mask

This calming treatment is formulated around Squalane and Beta-Glucan to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming treatment is formulated around Colloidal Oatmeal and Allantoin to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Collagen

Squalane

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Dimethicone

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Palmitic Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Stearic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides

Chlorella Protothecoides Oil

Beta-Glucan

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Enteromorpha Compressa Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Tocopherol

Collagen Amino Acids

Bisabolol

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract

Coelastrella Vacuolata Oil

Watanabea Reniformis Oil

Citric Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Propanediol

Ceteareth-20

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

1,2-Hexanediol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Benzoate

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Collagen, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Beta-Glucan, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Tocopherol, Collagen Amino Acids, Bisabolol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Coelastrella Vacuolata Oil, Watanabea Reniformis Oil, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Ceteareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Behenyl Alcohol

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Cetearyl Olivate

Allantoin

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Xanthan Gum

Nicotiana Tabacum Leaf Oil

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Trideceth-6

Tocopheryl Acetate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Colloidal Oatmeal

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Potassium Sorbate

Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Olivate, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Xanthan Gum, Nicotiana Tabacum Leaf Oil, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Trideceth-6, Tocopheryl Acetate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Colloidal Oatmeal, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.

It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.

As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.

Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.

Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:

Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.

It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract comes from the marigold flower and has been used on skin for centuries for its calming effect.

In the lab, its active compounds appear to calm inflammation and support the early "healing" phase of minor wounds.

This is why Europe's medicines regulator has approved calendula extracts as a traditional remedy for minor skin inflammation and healing small wounds.

The stronger human evidence is around would/ulcer care rather than everyday cosmetic claims; a review that pulled together 14 studies found that calendula helped calm the early, inflamed stage of a wound and helped new skin tissue form faster.

Two studies also showed it shrank leg ulcers (the kind caused by poor circulation). Results were mixed for burns and for the skin irritation people get from radiation treatment, so it's not a sure thing there.

In cosmetics, it's mostly a skin conditioning and soothing agent.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel concluded that calendula-derived ingredients are safe as used and that the ingredients are not irritating, sensitizing, or photosensitizing in clinical tests (though they may be mild eye irritants).

Typical use levels are quite low; industry data reported it used at under 0.5% (one supplier noted a 10-25% extract blend used at 1-10% in the finished product). Historical use goes up to 10%.

The only thing to keep in mind is if you have daisy/ragweed allergies. Calendula is in the same family and one patch-test study found 2% of dermatitis patients reacted to marigold. Be sure to patch test if you have sensitive or allergy-prone skin.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

We don't have a description for Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid yet.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract comes from the Holy Basil plant. Holy Basil is native to India.

Holy Basil is rich in antioxidants due to its high romarinic acid, ferulic acid, and rutin content. This gives it skin brightening and soothing properties.

While Holy Basil has many claims to help fight acne, more research is needed.

One thing to note is the presence of tannins; tannins are naturally found in nature. However, this compound may be skin-sensitizing.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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