Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum Versus Theramid Lino-8

Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum Versus Theramid Lino-8 This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Glutathione to brighten dull-looking skin. This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Panthenol and Linoleic A

Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm Serum Versus Theramid Lino-8

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Glutathione to brighten dull-looking skin.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Panthenol and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Propanediol

Glycerin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate

Ethoxydiglycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Water

Caprylyl Glycol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract

Glutathione

Acetyl Cysteine

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Ergothioneine

Tocopherol

Gluconolactone

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Xanthan Gum

Silica

Sodium Benzoate

Calcium Gluconate

Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Water, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract, Glutathione, Acetyl Cysteine, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Ergothioneine, Tocopherol, Gluconolactone, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol

Panthenol

Linoleic Acid

Coco-Caprylate

C15-19 Alkane

Persea Gratissima Oil

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Saccharomyces Ferment

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Phytonadione Epoxide

Ubiquinone

Linolenic Acid

Lauroyl Lysine

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Squalene

Beta-Sitosterol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Sclerotium Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Panthenol, Linoleic Acid, Coco-Caprylate, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Persea Gratissima Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phytonadione Epoxide, Ubiquinone, Linolenic Acid, Lauroyl Lysine, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Squalene, Beta-Sitosterol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sclerotium Gum, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
  2. 02Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  3. 03Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  4. 04Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Extract
  5. 05Niacinamide
  6. 06Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil
  7. 07Isododecane
  8. 08Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer
  9. 09Butyloctyl Salicylate
  10. 10Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  11. 11Tridecyl Salicylate
  12. 12Camellia Sinensis Extract
  13. 13Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
  14. 14Daucus Carota Sativa Extract
  15. 15Helianthus Annuus Flower
  16. 16Punica Granatum Extract
  17. 17Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract
  18. 18Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
  19. 19Tocopherol
  20. 20Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side