Skin science article
Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum Versus Medik8 Super C Ferulic
Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum Versus Medik8 Super C Ferulic This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening serum
Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum Versus Medik8 Super C Ferulic
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethoxydiglycol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Glutathione
Superoxide Dismutase
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethoxydiglycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glutathione, Superoxide Dismutase, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Methoxymethylbutanol
Propylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Ferulic Acid
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Water
Tocopheryl Acetate
Methoxymethylbutanol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Ferulic Acid, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Water, Tocopheryl Acetate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.