Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Numbuzin No.5 Vitamin Concentrated Serum

Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Numbuzin No.5 Vitamin Concentrated Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Kojic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Glycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylresorcinol

Ethyl Linoleate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Dodecane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Bisabolol

Glyceryl Laurate

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Allantoin

Ribose

Sodium Acetate

Bakuchiol

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Cellulose

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract

Niacinamide

Panthenol

Tranexamic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate

Sorbitol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Alpha-Arbutin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Pentylene Glycol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glutathione

Ceramide NP

Beta-Glucan

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tocopherol

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Ubiquinone

Thioctic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Behenyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Disodium EDTA

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Tranexamic Acid, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Bisabolol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Glutathione, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ubiquinone, Thioctic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Behenyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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