Skin science article
Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Of Other Worlds Light Beams Barrier Treatment
Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Of Other Worlds Light Beams Barrier Treatment This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts. This barrier-repair serum
Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Of Other Worlds Light Beams Barrier Treatment
This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Urea and Azelaic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Azelaic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Propanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Kojic Acid
Polysorbate 20
Glycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylresorcinol
Ethyl Linoleate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Dodecane
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Squalane
Bisabolol
Glyceryl Laurate
Glyceryl Undecylenate
Allantoin
Ribose
Sodium Acetate
Bakuchiol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Cellulose
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol
Urea
Triethanolamine
Sodium PCA
Saccharide Isomerate
Symphytum Officinale Root Extract
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract
Ceramide NP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Oryza Sativa Extract
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Superoxide Dismutase
Soybean Peroxidase
Magnesium Chloride
Diazolidinyl Urea
Cholesterol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Urea, Triethanolamine, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium PCA, Saccharide Isomerate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Symphytum Officinale Root Extract, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Oryza Sativa Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Superoxide Dismutase, Soybean Peroxidase, Magnesium Chloride, Diazolidinyl Urea, Cholesterol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.