Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Transparent Lab PIH Sun Spot Fading Treatment

Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Transparent Lab PIH Sun Spot Fading Treatment This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts. This brightening treatment

Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum Versus Transparent Lab PIH Sun Spot Fading Treatment

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.

This brightening treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Kojic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Glycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylresorcinol

Ethyl Linoleate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Dodecane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Bisabolol

Glyceryl Laurate

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Allantoin

Ribose

Sodium Acetate

Bakuchiol

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Cellulose

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol

Niacinamide

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Betaine

Tranexamic Acid

Salicylic Acid

Punica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Lecithin

Cholesterol

Maltodextrin

Decyl Glucoside

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Sorbic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Chloride

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Betaine, Tranexamic Acid, Kojic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Punica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Lecithin, Cholesterol, Maltodextrin, Decyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Kojic Acid is a naturally occurring organic acid that is produced during the fermentation of certain fungi. It is one of the most well-studied brightening ingredients (tyrosinase inhibitors) out there.

That's why you'll see Kojic Acid in products that target dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and general uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with other brightening actives like Alpha Arbutin, Glycolic Acid, and Vitamin C derivatives.

By latching onto the copper that the enzyme tyrosinase needs to function, Kojic Acid prevents less pigment from being made. It's so well-established that researchers regularly use it as the go-to benchmark when testing new brightening ingredients.

Some other perks include documented antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. The The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) Expert Panel concluded Kojic Acid is safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 1% and the EU's SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) considers it safe as a skin lightening agent at concentrations up to 0.7%.

One thing to know about Kojic Acid is that stability is its weak spot; it is sensitive to light, heat, and air exposure and will oxidize/turn brown in formulations. Its derivative, Kojic Dipalmitate, was developed as a stable alternative.

Some individuals have reported contact sensitization so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or sensitive skin.

Fun fact: It was first discovered in 1907 and naturally occurs in the production of sake, soy sauce, and miso.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream BalmIngredients explained

  1. 01A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  2. 02A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  3. 03Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  4. 04Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  5. 05High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  6. 06It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a…
  7. 07It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. As f.c. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL pre…
  8. 08Expand to read more
  9. 09Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne.
  10. 10The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>
  11. 11Sunflower does not need a big intro as you probably use it in the kitchen as cooking oil, or you munch on the seeds as a healthy snack or you adore its big, beautiful yellow flower during the summer - or you do all of these and probably even more. A…
  12. 12It’s a real oldie: expressed directly from the seeds, the oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years. According to The National Sunflower Association, there is evidence that both the plant and its oil were used by American Indians in the ar…
  13. 13Our intro did get pretty big after all (sorry for that), so let's get to the point finally: sunflower oil - similar to other plant oils - is a great emollient that makes the skin smooth and nice and helps to keep it hydrated. It also protects the su…
  14. 14It's also loaded with fatty acids (mostly linoleic (50-74%) and oleic (14-35%)). The unrefined version (be sure to use that on your skin!) is especially high in linoleic acid that is great even for acne-prone skin. Its comedogen index is 0, meaning …
  15. 15Truth be told, there are many great plant oils and sunflower oil is definitely one of them.
  16. 16We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  17. 17A big molecule from repeated subunits that is used to form gel-like textures and create a film on the skin.
  18. 18An often used emollient with a light and silky feel. It's very mild to both skin and eyes and spreads nicely and easily. It's often used in sunscreens as it's also an excellent solvent for sunscreen agents.
  19. 19The (fixed or non-volatile) oil coming from the black seeds of Nigella Sativa, a smallish (20-30 cm) flowering plant native to Southwest Asia. The seed has a very complex chemical composition (it contains both fixed and volatile oil) and is used tra…
  20. 20As for modern research and chemical composition, the fixed oil from the seeds is rich in skin-nourishing unsaturated fatty acids (mainly linoleic acid at 50 – 60% and oleic acid at 20%, but also contains some rare ones like C20:2 arachidic and eicos…
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side