Skin science article
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil Versus Niod Neck Elasticity Catalyst
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil Versus Niod Neck Elasticity Catalyst This anti-aging oil is formulated around Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging treatment
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil Versus Niod Neck Elasticity Catalyst
This anti-aging oil is formulated around Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Squalane
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Bakuchiol
Ubiquinone
Teprenone
Physalis Angulata Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Bakuchiol, Ubiquinone, Teprenone, Physalis Angulata Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Caprylyl Methicone
Glycerin
PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Butylene Glycol
Hyaluronic Acid
Ethoxydiglycol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
Carnitine
Caffeine
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine
Acetyl Cyclohexapeptide-34
Urea
Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
Coccoloba Uvifera Fruit Extract
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Glyceryl Caprylate
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Maltodextrin
Dextran
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Sorbitan Laurate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Propylene Carbonate
Tocopherol
Phenylpropanol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Water, Caprylyl Methicone, Glycerin, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Carnitine, Caffeine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Acetyl Cyclohexapeptide-34, Urea, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Coccoloba Uvifera Fruit Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Maltodextrin, Dextran, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Laurate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopherol, Phenylpropanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.