Skin science article
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil Versus Olehenriksen HydraBarrier Nourishing Face Oil
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil Versus Olehenriksen HydraBarrier Nourishing Face Oil This anti-aging oil is formulated around Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This barr
Allies of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil Versus Olehenriksen HydraBarrier Nourishing Face Oil
This anti-aging oil is formulated around Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This barrier-repair oil is formulated around Rosa Canina Seed Oil and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Squalane
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil
Bakuchiol
Ubiquinone
Teprenone
Physalis Angulata Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Bakuchiol, Ubiquinone, Teprenone, Physalis Angulata Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Tocopherol
Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Propylene Carbonate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Parfum
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Tocopherol, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil is oil from the seeds of Black Currant. A more common name for this ingredient is Black Currant Seed Oil.
Black Currant Seed Oil contains a high amount of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains linoleic acid.
Black currant berries contain anthocyanins, an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Black currant berries also contain Vitamin E and fatty acids. It can help soften the skin.
This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.