Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Mandelic Acid and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture.

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Mandelic Acid

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Polysorbate 20

Lactic Acid

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Salicylic Acid

Superoxide Dismutase

Bakuchiol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Rumex Occidentalis Extract

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Nonapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract

Glutamic Acid

Phenyl T-Butylnitrone

Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbic Acid

Tocopherol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Xanthan Gum

Sclerotium Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl Glycol

Sorbitol

Dextran

Sodium Gluconate

Disodium Succinate

Acetyl Tributyl Citrate

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Mandelic Acid, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Salicylic Acid, Superoxide Dismutase, Bakuchiol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract, Glutamic Acid, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitol, Dextran, Sodium Gluconate, Disodium Succinate, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol

Azelaic Acid

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Propanediol

Kojic Acid

Hexylresorcinol

Ethyl Linoleate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Dodecane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Bisabolol

Glyceryl Laurate

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Allantoin

Ribose

Sodium Acetate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Cellulose

Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.

You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:

1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do

Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).

The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.

Systematic reviews also back this up:

Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.

The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.

This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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