Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm Versus La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+

Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm Versus La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Nigella Sativa Seed Oil

Isomalt

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Canola Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Panthenol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Ethyl Macadamiate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Niacinamide

Ceramide NP

Allantoin

Bisabolol

Hyaluronic Acid

Lecithin

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters

Adenosine Triphosphate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Tocopherol

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract

Phytol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Xanthan Gum

Silica

Dextran

Zea Mays Starch

Sodium Gluconate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Sodium Hydroxide

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Potassium Sorbate

Salicylic Acid

Malic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Isomalt, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Canola Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Panthenol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Hyaluronic Acid, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Adenosine Triphosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Phytol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Dextran, Zea Mays Starch, Sodium Gluconate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sodium Hydroxide, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Potassium Sorbate, Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Dimethicone

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Propanediol

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Trihydroxystearin

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Zinc Gluconate

Madecassoside

Manganese Gluconate

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Aluminum Hydroxide

Magnesium Sulfate

Mannose

Capryloyl Glycine

Caprylyl Glycol

Vitreoscilla Ferment

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Lactobacillus

Acetylated Glycol Stearate

Maltodextrin

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Titanium Dioxide

Water, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Zea Mays Starch, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Trihydroxystearin, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Zinc Gluconate, Madecassoside, Manganese Gluconate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Silica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Magnesium Sulfate, Mannose, Capryloyl Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Lactobacillus, Acetylated Glycol Stearate, Maltodextrin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Titanium Dioxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Zea Mays Starch is starch made from corn. You might know this as cornstarch . It is used to thicken a product. It can replace talc as an absorbent.

The pH of cornstarch is 5.92.

Cornstarch is a common food ingredient used to thicken soups or to make corn syrup.

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