Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment

Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment

This lactic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Lactic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Glycerin

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Propanediol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Lactic Acid

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids

Hydrolyzed Silk

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Astaxanthin

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Lauryl Glucoside

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate

Caprylyl Glycol

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Polysorbate 20

Tetrasodium EDTA

Phenethyl Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Caprylyl Glycol, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isononyl Isononanoate

Caffeine

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Niacinamide

Lactobacillus Ferment

Cetearyl Olivate

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 60

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Teprenone

Phospholipids

Hyaluronic Acid

Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Sphingolipids

Bisabolol

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Honey

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ceramide NP

Phenyl T-Butylnitrone

Tocopherol

Glutathione

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Ergothioneine

Carbomer

Sorbitan Olivate

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Mica

Dextran

Sodium Hydroxide

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

CI 77891

Ethylhexylglycerin

Isohexadecane

Maltodextrin

Polysorbate 80

Acetyl Tributyl Citrate

Sorbitan Oleate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Glycolate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Astaxanthin is a carotene pigment and red pigment. It is a promising antioxidant with a ton of skin benefits.

This antioxidant has great anti-aging benefits by blocking the following:

Astaxanthin is also great at soothing skin due to its ability to block molecules that signal inflammation. It is currently being studied for preventing chronic inflammatory diseases.

Plus, a study from 2012 found Astaxanthin in liposomes protected mouse skin from UV-damage.

Fun fact: Astaxanthin is responsible for giving salmon a pink color.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is more commonly known as IPMP or Isopropyl Methylphenol. It is a preservative and has antimicrobial properties.

According to the EPA, this ingredient is allowed for use in cleansers, creams, powders, bath products, toothpaste, perfume, and more.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Tetrasodium EDTA is the salt formed from neutralizing ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid with sodium hydroxide. It is a chelating agent and used to prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps keep the product and ingredients stable.

Tetrasodium EDTA comes as a white solid and is soluble in water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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