Allies of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial Versus Avène A-Oxitive Night Peeling Cream

Allies of Skin Multi Acids & Retinoid Brightening Sleeping Facial Versus Avène A-Oxitive Night Peeling Cream

This smoothing overnight mask is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

This smoothing night moisturizer is formulated around Retinal to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Glycolic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Silk

Sodium Hydroxide

Yogurt

Lactic Acid

Salicylic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Mel

Honey Extract

Panthenol

Allantoin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3

Physalis Angulata Extract

Galactoarabinan

Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract

Dimethyl Sulfone

Zymomonas Ferment Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Bisabolol

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Rosmarinyl Glucoside

Caffeyl Glucoside

Gallyl Glucoside

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Gluconate

Maltodextrin

Sclerotium Gum

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Tetrasodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Hydroxide, Yogurt, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Mel, Honey Extract, Panthenol, Allantoin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3, Physalis Angulata Extract, Galactoarabinan, Globularia Alypum Leaf Extract, Dimethyl Sulfone, Zymomonas Ferment Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Extract, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Rosmarinyl Glucoside, Caffeyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Gluconate, Maltodextrin, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol

Triethylhexanoin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Ceteareth-20

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Ceteareth-33

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Benzoic Acid

BHT

Caramel

Disodium EDTA

Mica

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Oleoyl Dipeptide-15

Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31

CI 17200

Retinal

Silica

CI 77891

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Glucoside

Water, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ceteareth-20, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ceteareth-33, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Benzoic Acid, BHT, Caramel, Disodium EDTA, Mica, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Oleoyl Dipeptide-15, Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31, Phenoxyethanol, CI 17200, Retinal, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, CI 77891, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Glucoside

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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