Skin science article
Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Oasis 7 Vitamin C Serum
Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Oasis 7 Vitamin C Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening serum is
Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum Versus Oasis 7 Vitamin C Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Heptyl Glucoside
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Acacia Senegal Gum
Polysorbate 20
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Phospholipids
Glycolipids
Dimethyl Sulfone
Ornithine
Lecithin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Pentapeptide-18
Pentapeptide-48
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexylglycerin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Levulinic Acid
P-Anisic Acid
Sodium Gluconate
Propanediol
Maltodextrin
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Heptanol
Phenethyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Heptyl Glucoside, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Polysorbate 20, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Glycolipids, Dimethyl Sulfone, Ornithine, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Pentapeptide-18, Pentapeptide-48, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Levulinic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Propanediol, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Heptanol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
2,3-Butanediol
Betaine
Dipropylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Carbomer
Tromethamine
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Phytate
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Niacinamide
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glycine Soja Oil
Bifida Ferment Filtrate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Ascorbic Acid
Retinol
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Collagen
Potassium Hyaluronate
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 2,3-Butanediol, Betaine, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Niacinamide, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycine Soja Oil, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Ascorbic Acid, Retinol, Tocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Collagen, Potassium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-22
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.