Skin science article
Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum Versus reviv serums Ultimate Serum
Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum Versus reviv serums Ultimate Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum
Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum Versus reviv serums Ultimate Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Heptyl Glucoside
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Acacia Senegal Gum
Polysorbate 20
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Phospholipids
Glycolipids
Dimethyl Sulfone
Ornithine
Lecithin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Pentapeptide-18
Pentapeptide-48
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexylglycerin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Sclerotium Gum
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Levulinic Acid
P-Anisic Acid
Sodium Gluconate
Propanediol
Maltodextrin
Citric Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Heptanol
Phenethyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Heptyl Glucoside, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Polysorbate 20, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Glycolipids, Dimethyl Sulfone, Ornithine, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Pentapeptide-18, Pentapeptide-48, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Levulinic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Propanediol, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Heptanol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol
Pentylene Glycol
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes
Alpha-Arbutin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Ergothioneine
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Ubiquinone
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Rh-Polypeptide-3
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Human Urine Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media
Glycereth-7 Triacetate
Ethoxydiglycol
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Saccharide Isomerate
Tripeptide-2
Dimer Tripeptide-43
Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tocopheryl Acetate
Pullulan
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide
Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Geranium Maculatum Extract
Taraxacum Officinale Root Extract
Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract
Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
PCA
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Sodium Chloride
Carbomer
Alcohol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Dextran
Disodium EDTA
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Glycerin, Dimethyl Sulfone, Human Umbilical Mesenchymal Stem Cell Exosomes, Alpha-Arbutin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Ergothioneine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Ubiquinone, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Rh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Human Urine Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Tripeptide-2, Dimer Tripeptide-43, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Root Extract, Achillea Millefolium Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Chloride, Carbomer, Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dimethyl Sulfone is an organic compound that naturally contains sulfur. It is used as a solvent due to its stability. Solvents help mix and stabilize other ingredients.
Studies show taking Dimethyl Sulfone (also known as methylsulfonylmethane or MSM) orally may help reduce the depth of wrinkles. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any questions or concerns about this ingredient.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.