Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Eye Serum

Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Eye Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging eye moi

Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream Versus ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Eye Serum

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Tribehenin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isodecyl Neopentanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Propanediol

Squalane

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Bakuchiol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ceramide NP

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract

Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract

Calanthe Discolor Extract

Lilium Candidum Flower Extract

Ubiquinone

Superoxide Dismutase

Ergothioneine

Tocopheryl Acetate

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Biotin

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Chrysin

Gluconolactone

Dipeptide-2

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Calcium Gluconate

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Citric Acid

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Isohexadecane

Pentylene Glycol

Polysorbate 80

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sorbitan Oleate

Steareth-20

Xanthan Gum

Benzyl Alcohol

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Tribehenin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Squalane, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Bakuchiol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract, Calanthe Discolor Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Ubiquinone, Superoxide Dismutase, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Biotin, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Gluconolactone, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Calcium Gluconate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Steareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Dimethicone

Dipropylene Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Bellis Perennis Flower Extract

Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Lupinus Albus Seed Oil

Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil

PEG-35 Castor Oil

Hieracium Pilosella Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Cordyceps Militaris Mycelium Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract

Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Chloride

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Lactobacillus Ferment

Phospholipids

Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate

Hydrolyzed Sericin

Cera Alba

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Panthenyl Triacetate

Acetyl Tyrosine

Ethyl Linoleate

1,2-Hexanediol

Proline

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Oleyl Alcohol

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Silica

Silica Silylate

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Disodium EDTA

Pvp

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Water, Dimethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lupinus Albus Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, PEG-35 Castor Oil, Hieracium Pilosella Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Cordyceps Militaris Mycelium Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Chloride, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Lactobacillus Ferment, Phospholipids, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Cera Alba, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Acetyl Tyrosine, Ethyl Linoleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Proline, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Oleyl Alcohol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Silica, Silica Silylate, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Pvp, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side