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Allies of Skin Prebiotics & Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops

Allies of Skin Prebiotics & Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops This pore-care serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide to refine the look of pores and strengthen the skin ba

Allies of Skin Prebiotics & Niacinamide Pore Refining Booster Versus Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops

This pore-care serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide to refine the look of pores and strengthen the skin barrier.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Lactobacillus

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Bisabolol

Silver

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3

Lysophosphatidic Acid

Lysolecithin

Lecithin

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate

Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ribose

Ubiquinone

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Astaxanthin

Ergothioneine

Glutathione

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sea Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Maltodextrin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Polysorbate 20

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Bisabolol, Silver, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3, Lysophosphatidic Acid, Lysolecithin, Lecithin, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ribose, Ubiquinone, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Astaxanthin, Ergothioneine, Glutathione, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sea Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Maltodextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 20, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol

Propanediol

Glycereth-26

2,3-Butanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Stearate

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polyquaternium-51

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Parfum

Benzyl Benzoate

Water, Propanediol, Glycereth-26, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 2,3-Butanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Stearate, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Polyquaternium-51, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
  4. 04It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
  5. 05The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
  6. 06Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
  7. 07So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
  8. 08A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
  9. 09While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
  10. 10Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
  11. 11Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  12. 12Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  13. 13Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  14. 14Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
  15. 15Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
  16. 16However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
  17. 17Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
  18. 18In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
  19. 19While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
  20. 20Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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