Allies of Skin Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream Versus Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10

Allies of Skin Retinal 0.1% & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream Versus Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Retinal and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Beta-Glucan

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Ubiquinone

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Madecassoside

Asiaticoside

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ceramide NP

Panthenol

Arginine

Glycolipids

Ornithine

Retinal

Bisabolol

Lecithin

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Levulinic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Cyclodextrin

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Phospholipids

Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Water, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Ubiquinone, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Panthenol, Arginine, Glycolipids, Ornithine, Retinal, Bisabolol, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Levulinic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cyclodextrin, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Phospholipids, Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Isododecane

Cetearyl Olivate

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Sorbitan Olivate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Titanium Dioxide

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Squalane

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Phenoxyethanol

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Alumina

Isostearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Stearic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Sodium Polyaspartate

Climbazole

Disodium EDTA

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Decylene Glycol

BHT

Coumarin

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Cyclodextrin, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Alumina, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Retinal, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium Polyaspartate, Climbazole, Disodium EDTA, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dipteryx Odorata Bean Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Decylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, BHT, Coumarin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cyclodextrins are ring-shaped sugar molecules made from starch. It is used to stabilize, protect, and slowly release active ingredients.

This ingredient can help prevent oxidation, reduce irritation from strong actives, and make certain ingredients absorb better once applied.

Once applied to your skin, enzymes gradually break down the cyclodextrin "ring"; this releases the active ingredient in a controlled way.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

This Honeysuckle flower extract comes from the Italian honeysuckle. It is an antioxidant, antimicrobial, and fragrance.

Both this and the Japanese Honeysuckle are rich in a natural paraben that give it antimicrobial property. They are effective in inhibiting bacteria, yeast, and mold.

Honeysuckle contains flavonoids and saponins. Both of these components are natural antioxidants that can help soothe the skin.

As most flowers do, honeysuckle has a natural fragrance.

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract comes from the honeysuckle flower.

Honeysuckles have skin protecting, anti-viral, and anti-inflammatory properties. It contains many antioxidants, such as luteolin, caffeic acid, loniflavone, and chlorogenic acids.

This honeysuckle is native to East Asia and used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat fever and inflammation.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Retinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.

What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.

Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.

Studies back up its efficacy in skin:

A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.

And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.

More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).

Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.

This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.

Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.

Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.

Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

Cloudberry seed oil is rich in vitamin C, citric acid, malic acid, vitamin C, and beta-carotene.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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