Skin science article
Allies of Skin Rhassoul & BHA Antioxidants Purifying Mask Versus Boring Without You For face Sake Multi-Mask
Allies of Skin Rhassoul & BHA Antioxidants Purifying Mask Versus Boring Without You For face Sake Multi-Mask This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients
Allies of Skin Rhassoul & BHA Antioxidants Purifying Mask Versus Boring Without You For face Sake Multi-Mask
This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Bentonite
Pentylene Glycol
Kaolin
Moroccan Lava Clay
Propanediol
Glyceryl Ricinoleate
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Salicylic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Honey
Stearic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Ceramide NP
Panthenol
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Tocopherol
Sodium Gluconate
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Bentonite, Pentylene Glycol, Kaolin, Moroccan Lava Clay, Propanediol, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Honey, Stearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Panthenol, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Sodium Gluconate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Titanium Dioxide
Propylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Polysorbate 20
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
CI 77492
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Acer Saccharum Extract
Kaolin, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Bentonite, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Polysorbate 20, Salicylic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, CI 77492, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bentonite is an aluminium phyllosilicate clay with great absorbent properties. The name 'bentonite' comes from the area where the largest source is found: Fort Benton, Wyoming.
As a clay, bentonite is often used to absorb excess oil and provide exfoliation. It has also been shown to have some antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show bentonite was effective at calming dermatitis from poison ivy and in diaper dermatitis of infants. Bentonite has also been shown to act as a barrier against toxic compounds on your skin.
Sunscreens containing bentonite display higher water resistance and stay on the skin for much longer. The sunscreens containing bentonite also show higher potency and UV light absorbtion.
Bentonite is naturally created from volcanic ash and several natural weathering/hydrothermal processes.
A common usage of bentonite is removing excess protein from white wines. Bentonite contains a property of being able to absorb large amounts of protein from aqueous solutions.
Phyllosilicate clay has a structure formed by sheets.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.