Allies of Skin Rhassoul & BHA Antioxidants Purifying Mask Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Extra Strength Daily Peel

Allies of Skin Rhassoul & BHA Antioxidants Purifying Mask Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Extra Strength Daily Peel

This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.

This smoothing treatment is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Bentonite

Pentylene Glycol

Kaolin

Moroccan Lava Clay

Propanediol

Glyceryl Ricinoleate

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Salicylic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Honey

Stearic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Punica Granatum Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Ceramide NP

Panthenol

Allantoin

Bisabolol

Tocopherol

Sodium Gluconate

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Bentonite, Pentylene Glycol, Kaolin, Moroccan Lava Clay, Propanediol, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Honey, Stearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Panthenol, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Sodium Gluconate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Alcohol Denat.

Glycolic Acid

Potassium Hydroxide

Hamamelis Virginiana Water

Polysorbate 20

Lactic Acid

Malic Acid

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Menthone Glycerin Acetal

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Soy Isoflavones

Copper PCA

Zinc PCA

Lecithin

Disodium EDTA

Alcohol

Polysorbate 80

Parfum

Linalool

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzoic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Bicarbonate

Resveratrol

Retinol

Ascorbic Acid

Ubiquinone

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Phospholipids

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Raphanus Sativus Root Extract

Sodium PCA

BHT

Octoxynol-9

Simethicone

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthone Glycerin Acetal, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Resveratrol, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Ubiquinone, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Sodium PCA, BHT, Octoxynol-9, Simethicone, Tetrasodium EDTA

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Mandelic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA).

Like other AHAs, it helps exfoliate the surface of the skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

Mandelic acid helps with:

Due to it having a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, mandelic acid is able to penetrate the skin more slowly and evenly. This makes it gentler and less irritating, making it a great option for sensitive or beginner skin.

Despite being milder, mandelic acid is still an effective exfoliant that improves skin texture and tone over time.

What makes mandelic acid stand out from other AHAs? It has antibacterial and antioxidant properties.

These traits make it a great option for acne-prone or problem skin by reducing active breakouts and fading post-acne marks. Studies show that mandelic acid (especially when combined with salicylic acid) can significantly reduce pimples and hyperpigmentation while causing fewer side effects than stronger acids.

Mandelic acid is effective in concentrations of 5% and up with an ideal pH range of 3-4 for at-home use.

Like other AHAs, it’s important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your newly exfoliated skin.

However, unlike glycolic acid, mandelic acid is light-sensitive. Be sure your mandelic acid is packaged in opaque containers to ensure it stays stable and effective.

In short, mandelic acid is a gentle yet powerful AHA that exfoliates, brightens, and helps clarify skin while keeping irritation low. Its antibacterial action makes it especially beneficial for those with acne-prone, sensitive, or uneven skin, offering smoother, clearer, and more even-toned results over time.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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