Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel Versus La Roche-Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid Facial Sunscreen SPF50+

Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel Versus La Roche-Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid Facial Sunscreen SPF50+ This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This chemical sunscreen covers the ful

Allies of Skin The One SPF 50 Invisible Sunscreen Gel Versus La Roche-Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid Facial Sunscreen SPF50+

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Extract

Niacinamide

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Isododecane

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tridecyl Salicylate

Camellia Sinensis Extract

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Daucus Carota Sativa Extract

Helianthus Annuus Flower

Punica Granatum Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tocopherol

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Homosalate

Octocrylene

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Extract, Niacinamide, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Isododecane, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tridecyl Salicylate, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Helianthus Annuus Flower, Punica Granatum Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Diisopropyl Sebacate

Silica

Isopropyl Myristate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Glycerin

C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer

Propanediol

Drometrizole Trisiloxane

Perlite

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid

Triethanolamine

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Alcohol Denat., Diisopropyl Sebacate, Silica, Isopropyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, Propanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Perlite, Tocopherol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Triethanolamine, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is an oil-soluble used to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays (peak 357 nm).

It's one of the most effective UVA filters available but has a major caveat of photostability: avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation.

This means it can lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight without the help of a stabilizing agent.

Studies show antioxidants (like vitamin E or vitamin C) and some UV filters (like octocrylene and Tinosorb S) can meaningfully improve its stability in a formulation.

The maximum allowable concentration according to regulation is 3% in the US + Canada, and 5% in the EU, Australia, China, Korea, and ASEAN countries.

It has a well-support safety profile: a comprehensive 2025 review found minimal toxicity with no evidence of carcinogenicity.

Overall, avobenzone is a safe and regulated ingredient used in sunscreen for over 40 years.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.

It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.

You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.

The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.

Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.

The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.

Usage levels vary around the world:

Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).

You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.

In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.

Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.

The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  2. 02So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  3. 03You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  4. 04Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  5. 05And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  6. 06You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
  7. 07In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
  8. 08If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
  9. 09When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
  10. 10When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
  11. 11In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
  12. 12Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger l…
  13. 13Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
  14. 14The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
  15. 15Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  16. 16Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  17. 17Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  18. 18Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  19. 19This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  20. 20Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side