Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum Versus Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%

Allies of Skin Tranexamic & Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum Versus Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%

This brightening serum is formulated around Tranexamic Acid and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening emulsion is formulated around Tranexamic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C13-15 Alkane

Tranexamic Acid

Glycerin

Alpha-Arbutin

Pentylene Glycol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Hydrolyzed Pea

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Lentinus Edodes Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Diacetyl Boldine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Lactobacillus

Bisabolol

Panthenol

Tocopherol

Glucose

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate

C14-22 Alcohols

Xanthan Gum

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sorbitan Caprylate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Propanediol

Carbomer

Sodium Phytate

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Succinate

Sorbic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C13-15 Alkane, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Hydrolyzed Pea, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Diacetyl Boldine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lactobacillus, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Glucose, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate, C14-22 Alcohols, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sorbitan Caprylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Carbomer, Sodium Phytate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Succinate, Sorbic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Kaolin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Isostearyl Alcohol

Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Butylene Glycol Cocoate

Kojic Acid

Acetyl Glucosamine

Allantoin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Squalane

Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract

Triheptanoin

Citric Acid

C9-12 Alkane

Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Betaine

Sorbitol

Ethylcellulose

Lecithin

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Ectoin

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Water, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tranexamic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Kaolin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Isostearyl Alcohol, C13-15 Alkane, Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Kojic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Acetyl Glucosamine, Allantoin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Squalane, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Triheptanoin, Citric Acid, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, C9-12 Alkane, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Betaine, Sorbitol, Ethylcellulose, Lecithin, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Ectoin, Phenoxyethanol, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate, Glyceryl Caprylate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Alpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).

It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.

There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.

The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.

Human studies look good too.

A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.

Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.

Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

C13-15 Alkane is a group of alkanes with 13 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

It is a solvent and texture enhancer. Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.

Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.

Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.

This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:

This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.

The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.

Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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