Skin science article
Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Shampoo Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo
Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Shampoo Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Coco-Glucoside Glycol Distear
Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture Shampoo Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Coco-Glucoside
Glycol Distearate
Squalane
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit/Seed Oil
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Polyglutamic Acid
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Cocos Nucifera Water
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Cocamide Mipa
Coconut Acid
Polyester-11
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Polyquaternium-7
Polyquaternium-73
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Isethionate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Chloride
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Benzyl Benzoate
Hydroxycitronellal
Limonene
Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Coco-Glucoside, Glycol Distearate, Squalane, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit/Seed Oil, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglutamic Acid, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Cocos Nucifera Water, Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Cocamide Mipa, Coconut Acid, Polyester-11, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-73, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Isethionate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Sh-Oligopeptide-78
Panthenol
Glycerin
Sodium Phytate
Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Benzoic Acid
Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sh-Oligopeptide-78, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium Phytate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Limonene
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
This ingredient is derived from guar gum. It is a skin conditioning agent that creates a thin, breathable film to reduce water loss during cleansing.
This leaves the skin feeling soft rather than stripped and also contributes to a creamier lather.
Due to the large molecule size, this ingredient is unlikely to penetrate skin.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!