Anfisa Skin Ân-Dew 10% Azelaic Acid + PHA Serum Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

Anfisa Skin Ân-Dew 10% Azelaic Acid + PHA Serum Versus Allies of Skin Azelaic & Kojic Advanced Clarifying Serum

This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and clear breakouts.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Hexylresorcinol

Gluconolactone

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract

Morus Nigra Leaf Extract

Glycerin

Artocarpus Heterophyllus Seed Extract

Phyllanthus Emblica Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Daucus Carota Sativa Extract

Tocopherol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Benzoic Acid

Dehydroacetic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Citrate

Ferulic Acid

Tetrasodium EDTA

Potassium Sorbate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Water, Azelaic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hexylresorcinol, Gluconolactone, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Pichia/Resveratrol Ferment Extract, Morus Nigra Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Artocarpus Heterophyllus Seed Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Daucus Carota Sativa Extract, Tocopherol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, Ferulic Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Butylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Kojic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethyl Linoleate

Dodecane

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Bisabolol

Glyceryl Laurate

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Allantoin

Ribose

Sodium Acetate

Bakuchiol

Cellulose

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylresorcinol, Ethyl Linoleate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dodecane, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Bisabolol, Glyceryl Laurate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Allantoin, Ribose, Sodium Acetate, Bakuchiol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.

What makes it special?

OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.

Here's what each tier does best:

Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.

Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Another popular name for this ingredient is Synovea HR. This ingredient is a skin lightener and antioxidant.

Like other skin lighteners, it blocks the process of skin darkening. Specifically, this ingredient blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for darkening skin when exposed to UV.

Hexylresorcinol works well with other ingredients. Studies show this ingredient boosts the effect of niacinamide, various forms of vitamin C, and retinoids.

Many consider this to be a safer alternative to hydroquinone. In fact, this ingredient produces the same results as hydroquinone in lower amounts.

Fun fact: This ingredient can also be found food and medicine for treating skin infections.

Gentle reminder from SkinSort: all skin tones are beautiful!

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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