Anua Nano Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%

Anua Nano Retinol 0.3% + Niacin Renewing Serum Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycereth-26

Niacinamide 5%

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Potentilla Anserina Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Flower Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water

Sodium Hyaluronate

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Acid

Tocopherol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Methylpropanediol

Butylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Retinol 0.1%

Ceramide NP

Pentylene Glycol

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Polyquaternium-51

Squalane

Panthenol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

BHT

Oleic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

BHA

Allantoin

Maltodextrin

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Sorbitan Laurate

Glyceryl Stearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Octyldodecanol

Phytosterols

Madecassoside

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Cholesterol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide Ng

Caprylyl Glycol

Guaiazulene

Sucrose Distearate

Nonapeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Hexapeptide-9

Ceramide EOP

Water, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide 5%, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Potentilla Anserina Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Acid, Tocopherol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Retinol 0.1%, Ceramide NP, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium-51, Squalane, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, BHT, Oleic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, BHA, Allantoin, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Sorbitan Laurate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Phytosterols, Madecassoside, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Cholesterol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Ng, Caprylyl Glycol, Guaiazulene, Sucrose Distearate, Nonapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hexapeptide-9, Ceramide EOP

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Pentapeptide-18

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

Trehalose

Fructose

Glucose

Maltose

Urea

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sodium Lactate

Citric Acid

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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