Anua Retinol 0.1 Caffeine Revitalizing Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C

Anua Retinol 0.1 Caffeine Revitalizing Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This brightening serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caffeine

Panthenol

Soluble Collagen

Squalane

Adenosine

Ceramide NP

Ceramide Ng

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Ceramide As

Ceramide EOP

Hexapeptide-2

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Retinol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Chitosan

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Diglycerin

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydroxyacetophenone

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Phytate

Butylene Glycol

Trideceth-10

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sorbitan Isostearate

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Cholesterol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Oleic Acid

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate

Octyldodecanol

Phytosterols

Sorbitan Laurate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Phytosphingosine

Biotin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Xanthan Gum

Water, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caffeine, Panthenol, Soluble Collagen, Squalane, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Hexapeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Retinol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Chitosan, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Diglycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Phytate, Butylene Glycol, Trideceth-10, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Oleic Acid, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Octyldodecanol, Phytosterols, Sorbitan Laurate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phytosphingosine, Biotin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum

Centella Asiatica Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Betaine

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Methyl Trimethicone

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Silica

Bisabolol

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Fructooligosaccharides

Beta-Glucan

Maltodextrin

Arginine

Carbomer

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Centella Asiatica Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Methyl Trimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Panthenol, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Water, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica, Bisabolol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Maltodextrin, Arginine, Carbomer, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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