Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Anua Rice 70 Glow Milky Toner Versus Prequel Half & Half Peptides & Ceramides Fluid Moisturizer

Anua Rice 70 Glow Milky Toner Versus Prequel Half & Half Peptides & Ceramides Fluid Moisturizer This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Oryza Sativa Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is

Anua Rice 70 Glow Milky Toner Versus Prequel Half & Half Peptides & Ceramides Fluid Moisturizer

This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Oryza Sativa Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Hexapeptide-11 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Oryza Sativa Bran Water 71%

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Panthenol

Betaine

Oryza Sativa Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Diphenyl Dimethicone

Triethylhexanoin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Adenosine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Xanthan Gum

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Dextrin

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Oryza Sativa Seed Protein

Ceramide NP

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Arbutin

Ascorbic Acid

Allantoin

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Ceramide EOP

Oryza Sativa Bran Water 71%, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Panthenol, Betaine, Oryza Sativa Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Dextrin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Oryza Sativa Seed Protein, Ceramide NP, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Arbutin, Ascorbic Acid, Allantoin, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ceramide EOP

Isopropyl Myristate

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Squalane

Ceramide As

Ceramide Ns

Hexapeptide-11

Matrixyl 3000

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Triolein

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glyceryl Oleate

Undecane

Glyceryl Dioleate

Caprylyl Glycol

Tridecane

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Citric Acid

Sodium Phytate

Sodium PCA

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Lactate

PCA

Sodium Benzoate

Serine

Alanine

Palmitic Acid

Glycine

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Phenoxyethanol

Glutamic Acid

Lysine Hcl

Threonine

Arginine

Proline

Tocopherol

Polysorbate 20

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Isopropyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Squalane, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Hexapeptide-11, Matrixyl 3000, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Triolein, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Oleate, Undecane, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Dioleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Tridecane, Betaine, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Sodium Benzoate, Serine, Alanine, Palmitic Acid, Glycine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.

It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.

EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.

What makes Ceramide EOP special is its ultra-long fatty acid chain; this unique structure allows it to bridge the lipid layers in your skin barrier to prevent water loss (something no other ceramide can do).

Low levels of Ceramide EOP have been found in people with eczema and psoriasis.

Using it together with other ceramides, cholesterol, and linoleic acid have been shown to meaningfully improve hydration and reduce water loss.

In one clinical study, a regimen using Ceramide EOP, NP, and AP led to significant symptom improvements in patients with eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin in just 4 weeks.

You'll usually see concentrations between 0.1-0.5% in formulations. Overall, this is a well-tolerated and safe ingredient for cosmetic use.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein is protein extracted from rice. This ingredient is rich in antioxidants and peptides.

Studies show this ingredient may help with blocking the melanin creation process when skin is exposed to UV.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
  14. 14In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
  15. 15Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewa…
  16. 16The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
  17. 17The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
  18. 18In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
  19. 19It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
  20. 20Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
Source · skinsort.com
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side