Skin science article
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum Versus Cos De BAHA AZ Azelaic Acid 10 Serum
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum Versus Cos De BAHA AZ Azelaic Acid 10 Serum This calming ampoule is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Ac
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum Versus Cos De BAHA AZ Azelaic Acid 10 Serum
This calming ampoule is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide to calm redness and clear breakouts.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Glycerin
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Azelaic Acid
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Squalane
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Beta-Glucan
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Allantoin
Cellulose Gum
Disodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Citric Acid
Xanthan Gum
Inulin
Cellulose
Glucose
Fructose
Panthenol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
1,2-Hexanediol
Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Azelaic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Squalane, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Cellulose, Glucose, Fructose, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, 1,2-Hexanediol
Propylene Glycol
Polysorbate 20
Niacinamide
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
Water, Propylene Glycol, Azelaic Acid, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!