Skin science article
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum Versus Tirtir Azelaic Acid 12% Serum
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum Versus Tirtir Azelaic Acid 12% Serum This calming ampoule is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Ampoule Serum Versus Tirtir Azelaic Acid 12% Serum
This calming ampoule is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Panthenol to calm redness and clear breakouts.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Glycerin
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Azelaic Acid
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Squalane
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Beta-Glucan
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Allantoin
Cellulose Gum
Disodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Citric Acid
Xanthan Gum
Inulin
Cellulose
Glucose
Fructose
Panthenol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
1,2-Hexanediol
Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Azelaic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Squalane, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Cellulose, Glucose, Fructose, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, 1,2-Hexanediol
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Hydroxide
Pentylene Glycol
Sorbitol
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Fructooligosaccharides
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Tromethamine
Tocopherol
Betaine
Zinc PCA
Hyaluronic Acid/Polyisopropylacrylamide Copolymer
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ceramide NP
Water, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Pentylene Glycol, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glucose, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Betaine, Zinc PCA, Dipropylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid/Polyisopropylacrylamide Copolymer, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Fructose is fruit/plant sugar. It can be found in apples, figs, and honey.
This ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated.
Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.