Skin science article
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Facial Cream Versus Derma Made Azelaic Acid Cream
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Facial Cream Versus Derma Made Azelaic Acid Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Azelaic Acid to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles. This acne treatment is formulated around Az
APLB Azelaic Acid Peptide Facial Cream Versus Derma Made Azelaic Acid Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Azelaic Acid to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.
This acne treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid to clear breakouts and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Glycerin
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Azelaic Acid
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sodium Hyaluronate
Stearic Acid
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Trideceth-10
Silica
Glyceryl Stearate
Beeswax
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Betaine
Trehalose
Citric Acid
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Squalane
Beta-Glucan
Dipropylene Glycol
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Propanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
1,2-Hexanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Azelaic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Betaine, Trehalose, Citric Acid, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Squalane, Beta-Glucan, Dipropylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!