Skin science article
APLB Collagen EGF Peptide Facial Cream Versus Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream
APLB Collagen EGF Peptide Facial Cream Versus Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming moisturizer
APLB Collagen EGF Peptide Facial Cream Versus Dr. Althea 345 Relief Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Extract 29.2%
Glycerin
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Butylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sodium Hyaluronate
Stearic Acid
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Trideceth-10
Silica
Glyceryl Stearate
Beeswax
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Betaine
Trehalose
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Yeast Ferment Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Squalane
Beta-Glucan
Dipropylene Glycol
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Propanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
1,2-Hexanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Water, Centella Asiatica Extract 29.2%, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Betaine, Trehalose, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Squalane, Beta-Glucan, Dipropylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Cyclohexasiloxane
Niacinamide
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyglycerin-3
Panthenol
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
C14-22 Alcohols
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyquaternium-51
Tromethamine
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Resveratrol
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Ceramide NP
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyquaternium-51, Tromethamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Beta-Glucan, Resveratrol, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ceramide NP
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.
In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.
Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!