Skin science article
APLB PDRN Vitamin C Ampoule Serum Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum
APLB PDRN Vitamin C Ampoule Serum Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niac
APLB PDRN Vitamin C Ampoule Serum Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Ascorbic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Water
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Glycerin
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Panthenol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Allantoin
Cellulose Gum
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Xanthan Gum
Inulin
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Cellulose
Fructose
Glucose
Ascorbic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Squalane
C12-14 Alketh-12
Asiaticoside
Madecassic Acid
Asiatic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Beta-Glucan
Caprylyl Glycol
Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Sodium DNA
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Allantoin, Cellulose Gum, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Cellulose, Fructose, Glucose, Ascorbic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Squalane, C12-14 Alketh-12, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Sodium DNA
Isopropyl Myristate
Glycereth-26
Niacinamide
Polyglycerin-3
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polyisobutene
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Milt Extract
Tromethamine
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Adenosine
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Oleate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Cyanocobalamin
Ubiquinone
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Salmon Egg Extract
Atelocollagen
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium DNA, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Milt Extract, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ubiquinone, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Salmon Egg Extract, Atelocollagen
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is made up of glycerin and polyacrylic acid. It helps hydrate your skin as a humectant.
This ingredient forms a hydrogel that delivers moisturizing, water-based ingredients to the skin. It is also used to thicken a product and to give it a smooth texture.
Acrylic acid itself is toxic, but the polymer form (this ingredient) is too large to penetrate skin, making it non-toxic.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Sodium DNA is an emerging anti-aging ingredient.
It is created by taking deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and purifying it with sodium hydroxide.
The DNA is extracted from several different animal sources, including: calf thymus, the gonadic tissue of a male sturgeon, or herring / salmon sperm.
You have probably seen this ingredient in anti-aging skincare. But what is it?
DNA is composed of nucleotides, or chemical building blocks. Nucleotides include adenine (A), thymine (T), guanine (G), and cytosine (C). Talk about a flashback to biology! Nucleosides are formed from these nucleotides.
The science behind Sodium DNA is based on an ingredient called Polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN.
PDRN are DNA fragments mainly extracted from the sperm cells of trout or salmon. Meaning, PDRN can be derived from Sodium DNA.
PDRN consists of chains of nucleotides and nucleosides mentioned above. They can range anywhere from 80 - 2000 pairs.
Studies show PDRN has the following properties:
Most of the research on PDRN has been done using injectable forms. That’s important, because PDRN is a large molecule and doesn’t absorb well through the skin. So if you’re applying it topically, the effects are likely to be much milder.
Still, topical Sodium DNA is emerging as a trendy anti-aging ingredient. It’s generally well-tolerated and offers good biocompatibility with human skin, making it a low-risk addition to most routines.
Further studies are needed to truly confirm this ingredients anti-aging ability (Remember, retinol has decades of research!).
Sodium DNA may be sourced from fish, animal tissue, or plants. Since this isn’t always disclosed, we recommend asking the brand directly if the ingredient’s origin is important to you.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!