Skin science article
APRILSKIN Calendula 10% PHA+AHA Resurfacing Serum Versus Paula's Choice 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant
APRILSKIN Calendula 10% PHA+AHA Resurfacing Serum Versus Paula's Choice 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and calm redness. This smoothing exfol
APRILSKIN Calendula 10% PHA+AHA Resurfacing Serum Versus Paula's Choice 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract and Gluconolactone to refine skin texture and calm redness.
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Gluconolactone
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Water
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Polyglycerin-3
Tromethamine
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
C12-14 Pareth-12
Panthenol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Lecithin
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Salicylic Acid
Allantoin
Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Indigofera Tinctoria Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract
Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract
Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Myosotis Sylvatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Gluconolactone, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Water, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Tromethamine, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, C12-14 Pareth-12, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Salicylic Acid, Allantoin, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Indigofera Tinctoria Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract, Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Myosotis Sylvatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Polysorbate 20
Cetyl Alcohol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Sorbitan Stearate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lauric Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
Xanthan Gum
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Sodium Hydroxide
Hexylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Cetyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Sorbitan Stearate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lauric Acid, Allantoin, Glycerin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!